Archive for the ‘Cat Care Preparation’ Category

Litter Box Basics

Wednesday, November 15th, 2006

Create a Kitty Rest Stop

Cats are naturally neat and intelligent, so it’s generally not hard to teach them how to use a litter box. Some kittens will have learned this skill from their mother, but if yours hasn’t, don’t worry — all it takes is a little practice on your pet’s part and a little patience on yours.

If you are housebreaking an adult cat, the guidelines are the same, though it may be more challenging and take longer to change her ways.

Think Outside the Box
  • Cats like to do their bathroom business in a place that provides privacy. Select a spot that’s out of the flow of household traffic.
  • Noise can disrupt a kitten trying to concentrate. Look for a place that’s quiet, away from chatty humans and loud appliances.
  • Locate the litter box a reasonable distance from your kitten’s food and water dishes. (The opposite end of a room is OK; right next to the dishes is not.)
  • Once you find the ideal spot, stick with it. Moving the litter box from place to place might confuse your kitten and cause a setback in your training efforts.
Pick the Perfect Pan
  • Easy to clean. Plastic is the most practical material, as it can be wiped down. A simple design will also make cleanups quick and painless. A covered box may help prevent messes if your kitten has poor aim or sends litter flying in all directions.
  • Sized for your kitten. The box overall should provide ample room for your cat to find just the right place to do its business and to cover the resulting wet spots and droppings with litter — but the sides should be low enough for a small kitten, or an older cat, to easily climb in and out.
 

Training Techniques

Most cats who are provided with a clean, well-filled litter box will gravitate to it rather than use other surfaces in the home (with the possible exception of the soil in plant pots). You can help your kitten get the hang of using the box by doing the following:

  • Be aware of the times your kitten is likely to need to use the box. These include after waking up, after eating, and whenever you see your cat sniffing around or squatting. At these times, gently scoop up your pet and carry her to the litter box to demonstrate the proper place to go.
  • After your kitten uses the box, pet her and shower her with praise.
  • Help your kitten associate pleasant experiences with using the box. Don’t scold or say “no” to your cat, or give any necessary medications, when near the box.
Handling Those Oops! Moments

Pick up the mess with a paper towel, and place the paper towel in the litter box to indicate where it belongs. Holding your kitten, gently “scratch” her front paws in the litter. This will convey the idea of pawing the litter to bury droppings.

Troubleshooting Tips

Once your kitten learns her litter-box lessons, she is unlikely to soil other parts of the house. If a house trained cat starts avoiding her box, one of the following is usually to blame:

  • Did you change litter type, scent, or brand? If you must introduce a new litter, start by mixing a little of the new filler in with the old and gradually increasing the proportion of the new kind.
  • Is the litter box being scooped or cleaned often enough? Scoop out solid waste every day. If using clumping litter, scoop out the wet clumps daily as well. If using conventional litter, replace it completely once a week.
  • Is there too much noise and activity around the litter box? Make sure the area near the box hasn’t suddenly become busier.
  • Is it a territorial issue? If a new cat joins the household, provide him with his own

litter box. Unless they get used to using a box together at an early age, or join your
household at the same time, many cats balk at being asked to share this very
private place with another animal.

All of these conditions are easy to address. But if none of them seem to apply, consult
your vet. Avoidance of the litter box can sometimes signal a physical problem, such
as a bladder infectionor something more serious, such as FUS (feline urological
syndrome) Your vet will examine yourpet and rule out any possible medical concerns.Cat And Kitten BootCampTraining : Litter matters, clean litter box everyday and make
sure there is enough litter in there.

Cat Food FAQ’s

Wednesday, November 15th, 2006

There are so many questions about cat food like, what type of food, if your cat is allergic, feeding habits or times and also which type of dishes to feed out of. There is no dumb question to ask and there are so many but here are some frequently asked questions about cat food and nutrition.

Q. What kind of food can I get for my allergic cat?

My cat is allergic to beef, rice, wheat, and chicken. The cat food given by the vet which is venison, my cat refuses to eat. Is there a good brand of cat food that does not have these ingredients?

A. “Limited ingredients” cat foods were developed to help cats with food allergies. They are generally used for three purposes:

  1. For purposes of eliminating allergens to discover which ingredients cats are actually allergic to.
  2. As a long-term diet for cats with IBD (Inflammatory Bowel Disease)
  3. As a long-term diet for cats with food allergies

The brand with which I’m most familiar, because one of my own cats has eaten it, is IVD (Innovative Veterinary Diet), manufactured by Royal Canin. IVD foods contain a single protein source (duck, lamb, venison, rabbit) and a single carbohydrate source (whole green peas and green pea fibre). These foods are also supplemented with “Omega 6 and 3 EFAs to provide the optimum in anti-inflammatory effects these nutrients can provide,” according to the manufacturer.
If your veterinarian does not stock these other products, they can be ordered, but only by prescription. Nature’s Variety also makes a number of canned cat foods that contain none of the ingredients you mentioned. Nature’s Variety also makes several dry cat foods, although some of them contain rice, which is an allergen for some cats.
Hopefully, your cat will find one of more of these foods palatable, and he will be on the road to good health soon.

Q. If you feed cats dog food, can it cause them to go blind?

I know it’s a strange question, but I’ve read that dog food is harmful for cats. It looks and smells much like cat food and my cats seem to like eating it when we run out of cat food.

A. It’s not a strange question at all. There’s nothing in dog food that will directly harm a cat within a short period of time, but the point is what is lacking. Simply put, dog food does not provide the nutrients required by cats. Eating a little bit of dog food won’t kill a cat. But a cat fed exclusively on dog food can not only go blind, but can develop a heart condition, called feline dilated cardiomyopathy.
The difference primarily is taurine, found in muscle meat, heart, and liver. Studies have also been done that showed pregnancy failure in queens with long-term taurine depletion, including increased resorption of fetuses, reduced litter size, and increased incidence of stillborn kittens.
Taurine supplement has been added to commercial cat foods for several years, for these reasons.
I would never suggest feeding cats dog food, but rather food specifically formulated for their own, unique nutritional needs.

Q. How much food do I have to feed to meet an adult cat’s daily requirement’s?

A. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast answer to your question. Nutritional requirements for cats vary, even for cats of the same age. Factors that may affect nutritional requirements for cat food include:

  • The Cat’s Weight
    A 17 pound cat with a muscular build and large bone structure will require more calories and associated nutrients to maintain his weight than a nine pound cat with a more slender build. Likewise, a cat who needs to gain or lose weight will need differing quantities of food.
  • The Cat’s Activity Level
    Likewise, two identical 17 pound cats as described above will vary in their requirements, depending on their activity. A three year old cat who races around the house may require more than an eight year old who sleeps most of the day.
  • The Cat Food Content
    Fish flavors in particular, should be fed in minimal amounts.
  • Although most cats love the taste of fish, an exclusive fish diet has the potential for harm. The Cornell Feline Health Center says, “Diets containing large quantities of fish can cause yellow-fat disease (steatitis), a result of vitamin E deficiency.” This is especially true with the lower quality fish protein often used in cat food. If your cat enjoys fish, try eliminating fish-flavored cat food; instead, give him a small treat of human-quality albacore tuna occasionally.
  • Quality of the Cat Food
    As a rule, many cats fed a high quality premium cat food will eat less than they did on poor-quality “grocery store” food. Their bodies have an innate ability to judge when they have reached the proper nutritional level, and they will stop eating when they reach that level. As a result, feeding these high quality foods has the added result of making them actually more economical.
  • Supplemental Dry Food
    Cats that are “free-fed” with dry food in addition to their regular meals of canned food, will eat less of the canned food.

To make it easier for you, most cat food cans and packages give you a feeding guidelines printed right on the package. Alternatively, you can check the web sites of the food manufacturers. PetSmart has a calculator for the basic foods it sells. You can input the cat’s age, weight, and activity level, and it will give you the results for your specific cat.

Generally, if your cat seems healthy and active, and is not constantly begging for food, you can assume that he is getting the proper amount of food, especially if the quality of food is superior.

Q. Is Milk ok for my cat?

My cat enjoys milk, and I give her a small amount two or three times a week. Will this help or harm her? I’ve read somewhere that milk is not good for cats.

A. Generally speaking, milk is not recommended for adult cats, as many of them are lactose-intolerant, and have problems digesting it.

However, If she’s not throwing up or having diarrhea, she’s probably okay with it. Some experts advise that cream is better than regular milk if you must give it to cats, probably because cream has less lactose than whole or skim milk. But again, a small amount of skim milk seems to be okay for your kitty, so I wouldn’t worry about it.

Also, recently, several new lactose-free milk substitutes for cats have been developed, such as CatSip, which may also be found in some food stores and most large pet supply stores. If your cat enjoys milk, she may like these products too.

Q. Why does my kitten paw the floor after eating?

A. The rest of the story:After my kitten eats or drinks, he paws the floor as if he is digging or burying something. Since I have never had a cat before I have no idea what he is doing or trying to tell me. Do you?

The pawing and digging your kitten is doing is an amazing exhibit of instinctive behavior (in that he probably didn’t learn it from mom-cat). In the wild, cats often bury their food remains (as well as their feces) as a protective measure so their enemies can’t track them. Conversely, they also spray their territory with urine as a warning to other predators to stay away.

Your little kitty is demonstrating this wonderful instinct, and it’s a very positive sign that he is making your home *his*. Be sure to have him neutered at an appropriate age, so he doesn’t follow through with urine marking.

Q. How can I keep a kitten out of the adult cat food and vice versa?

A. You are correct that kittens and adult cats have different nutritional needs, and that it is important that kittens get the nourishment specifically found in kitten food.

A new kitten should be separated for awhile with its own food dish and litter box. You may find that by the time you’re ready to introduce the newcomer to your existing cat, they’ll each gravitate to their own food dish. If not, you might want to put the older cat’s dish in a high place so the youngster can’t get to it. If the older cat wants to sneak a bite of kitten food now and then, it certainly won’t hurt her (just be sure the kitten gets its own daily requirements.) The extra exercise the older cat will get by playing with the kitten should keep excess pounds off.
With canned food (which is really better for all ages than dry food), you may have to either feed the two in separate rooms, or feed the kitten first, with the older cat confined in another room. After 20 minutes, take up the kitten food and discard it. Then, switch places and feed the adult cat, also discarding the remainder after 20 minutes.
Another option is to use a premium food formulated for all ages. Felidae is an excellent choice in this category.

I hope this information helps with some of your questions, there are so many more questions that are asked but these are the ones that I found around to be the most asked.

Source Of Information: Franny Syufy

Is a Cat For You?

Monday, November 13th, 2006

Cats are increasingly popular family pets, and it’s easy to see why. Besides being intelligent and entertaining, they are small, adaptable, and tidy. Cats also fit in well with the busy lifestyle of today’s families: They don’t need to be walked, and depend less heavily on human company than dogs do. They can nap contentedly while you’re at work and the kids are at school, then come alive at dinnertime and playtime.

Here are some of the practical pluses that make cats an attractive pet choice for many people:

  • They are scrupulously clean and odor-free — if in good health.
  • They can be left alone overnight or for a weekend if you set out extra food and water.
  • They are quiet pets, and unlikely to disturb the neighbors.
  • They require little living space to be comfortable and can get sufficient exercise indoors.
These qualities, along with their independent nature, make cats less reliant on their owners than many other pets. This makes them a particularly good choice for anyone who:
  • Works long hours
  • Has limited mobility due to age or physical condition
  • Lacks the time, energy, or desire to go outside several times a day

More Considerations

No pet is ideal for everyone, and that includes cats. Whether you should bring a cat — or any animal — into your home depends on a number of factors. Ask yourself the following questions:
  • Are you a “cat person”? Cats don’t deliver the same “dogged” devotion as their canine counterparts. They won’t fetch your slippers or run panting to the door to greet you. But if you would enjoy sharing your life with a clever, graceful, entertaining companion who considers herself your equal (at the very least), then a cat might be right for you. Spend some time around cats before you decide.
  • What activities do you want a pet to share? If you enjoy active outdoor activities and want an animal to accompany you, a dog would be the obvious choice. If you prefer to spend your leisure time indoors curled up with a furry friend, a cat will fit the bill.
  • Do you have enough time to devote to a cat? You’ll need to make time each day to feed your cat, groom her (especially if your cat is long-haired), and keep the litter box clean, as well as to play and cuddle.
  • Do you travel frequently? If you’re often away from home for more than a day or two, you’ll need to arrange for someone to check in on your cat and provide her with fresh food and water.
  • Do you have the financial ability to provide necessary food, medications, and regular veterinary care? Cats are relatively inexpensive to feed and maintain, but your cat’s daily necessities and ongoing health care will have to be factored into your household budget.
  • Do you or anyone in your household suffer from allergies? If your allergies are triggered by cat dander (flakes of shed skin), having a cat in the house might make it more difficult to keep your symptoms under control. A pet that doesn’t set off your allergies would be a safer bet.
  • Are you allowed to have a pet in your current home? Some apartments and condos prohibit or restrict pet ownership. (You might be able to negotiate an exception by furnishing references and/or making a refundable deposit to cover any possible damage.)
If you and cat ownership aren’t a good fit, you might want to consider another kind of pet, or put off pet ownership until your circumstances become more animal-friendly.

Better Homes and Gardens
Cat And Kitten BootCampTraining : Don’t adopt a Cat unless you are ready to abide by all their rules.